The Kangyatse peak is situated in the Nimaling plateau, south-west of Leh. The climb to the shoulder (6200m.) is moderate and requires basic knowledge of using crampons and ice axe. The main peak (6400m.) takes 3-4 extra days and requires experience of technical ice climbing.
Route 7 days/ 8 nights
DAY 1 – Shang Sumdo to Kongmaru La base (Lartse).
2-3 hrs. drive to Shang Sumdo, 3 hrs. trek to Ganda La base with gradual climb. Overnight in camp.
Day 2 – GandaLa base to Nimaling (4650m.).
5-6 hrs. trek to Nimaling with 2-3 hrs. of climb to the top of the pass with an amazing view of the peak. Overnight in camp.
Day 03 – Nimaling to base camp.
3 hrs. trek to the base camp. Overnight in camp.
Day 4 – Base camp – Summit 5 (10 – 11 hrs.) – Base camp.
We have to start early (1am) as the snow is hard and therefore it is easy and safe to climb. It takes 6-7 hrs. to reach the summit. On a clear day you can have an amazing view of peaks around Kangyatse: the Stok range to the north east, Karakoram to the far north and the Zanskar range to the south.
Day 05 – Base camp to Nimaling.
3 hrs. trek to Nimaling, rest and overnight at camp.
Day 6 – Nimaling to Chukurmo.
6-7 hrs. trek via Kongmaru La (4948m.). Overnight at camp.
Day 7 – Chukurmo – Shang Sumdo.
Leh – 2hrs. trek to Shang Sumdo, 4 hrs. drive to Leh with a visit to Hemis monastery en route.
- Grade: Basic, snow/ ice climb
- Best time: June to september